Thanks to MAC Cosmetics and photos from Style.com and Elle.com, here is our final recap of beauty trends straight from Spring/Summer 2008 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York.
Tom Pecheux was on a seventies supermodel tip—but it wasn’t Lauren Hutton. “I have in mind the young Jerry Hall,” he described. “When she was starting out, she had a babyface—but the sophistication of a woman.” That manifested in the idea of playing with color, just as Pecheux did–he used bright Parrot blue shadow on the eyelids, then covered the creases with a shimmery dark gray to give what he called “true sophistication.” There was an obvious lack of cheek color, and the mouths were dabbed with N3 Lipstick—a putty-ish pink nude The effect? A grown up in the eyes—and a tender young girl in the mouth.
To complete Nanette Lepore’s inspiration of “Picasso’s Mistresses,” Polly Osmond channeled, well—the look of a Picasso. So of course, she did a heavy brow, “clumpy spiky lashes”—achieved with rows of MAC lashes on the top and individuals on the bottom. A peachy cheek was followed by a juicy orange lip of Morange Lipstick with Lip Conditioner added. It was absolutely Andalusian. Think Guernica hanging in the Prado.
The Carolina woman is always very chic—but Diane Kendal made her even a tad chicer, with a sophisticated minimalist face. The brows were filled naturally, the eyes were glossed and shiny. But it was the mouth that was the standout. to go with Carolina’s fruity palette, the lips were dabbed with orange lipstick, then double dabbed with red in the centers. Then a light wash of fuchsia was applied all over the mouth in a filmy layer—the effect was a tangerine berry color that was more like a Sex and the City cocktail color (or the hue of a faded sunset)—than a lipstick shade.
Zac Posen is always about utter sophistication—and the look James Kaliardos created for Posen’s wheat and gold themed clothes was simple, urban, refined—and utterly unique. Using bronze, gold and taupe eye shadow powders, he created a crescent in the eye crease that had width and drama—and dragged all the way out into the browbone area. A little bit of taupe contoured the face, and pearl was dotted on top. The lip was left totally nude. Powder was actually used to nude out the mouth. It was a quiet look that packed a lot of power.
Makeup freaks wait all year to see what kind of wonders super makeup artist Kabuki will whip up out of his vast imagination for Heatherette. For Spring/Summer, he came up with two looks: one was a black metallic sparkly eye socket with a heavy link of winged white eyeliner over it, with a shine on the cheeks and brow bone—the other a very powdered white face with juicy orange lips and eye lashes so long they nearly swept the ceiling—all hand applied over hours. Realism is not what it’s about at Heatherette—fantasy is.
“It’s a 1930’s contour aerodynamic face,” is how James Kaliardos described his look for the Monique Lhuillier Spring/Summer show. Using MAC Taupe as a facial contour and on the temples, he created a field of high and low lights. Patina Eye Shadow was placed on the eye sockets and Pearl Cream Colour Base was dotted on the inner corners of the eyes. The focus; a silvery beige pigment powder whipped up especially for the show that swooped out from the brow bone almost to the ears. A pale peach lipgloss was applied to finish the look.
Carmen Marc Valvo
Sure, there’s been a lot of contouring this week, but generally the tanned bronzed goddess of Spring/Summers of yesteryear has been replaced by paler dewier skin. And in the case of Carmen Marc Valvo, it’s a white shade of pale. Tom Pecheux gave the girls nearly pearlescent faces, and the major focus was a sparkly white shine on the eyes and cheekbones. They practically glistened. On top of that, a doll-like peach cheek and pale peach lips. We’ve heard the words “Madame Pompadour” this week, and that’s clearly the influence Carmen Marc Valvo was going for.